Grapes of tomorrow: star winemaker looks to the future

His philosophy puts an accent on styles and varieties he believes may become more dominant in the years ahead, as climates change and drinking preferences veer towards slightly lighter styles.

After walking away from a promising career in finance and creating his first wines under his Aphelion label at the 2014 vintage, Mack’s winemaking star has risen quickly. He was voted Young Gun of Wine in 2018 and the following year Aphelion won Best Small Producer at the McLaren Vale Wine Show.

Wine judges’ praise and a five-red-star rating from the Halliday Wine Companion cement Aphelion’s status as one of our most exciting small producers.

The Australian Wine Club is shininf a light on Aphelion, bringing together four wines that stretch across Mack’s diverse portfolio of boutique handcrafted offerings, including some varieties grown in tiny quantities.

The Australian wine scene is nothing if not dynamic. While we have our regional heroes – Barossa shiraz, Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon and Margaret River chardonnay, to name a few – a dizzying collection of grapes makes up our national vintage crush each year.

Wine Australia’s 2025 vintage report shows three varieties made up 55 per cent of the crush – shiraz 23 per cent, cabernet 14 per cent and chardonnay 18 per cent. To make up the total harvest, 37 other varieties are listed by quantity crushed and beyond that, there are more than 50 other varieties grown but in quantities too small to record separately.

 

It’s among this rich varietal tapestry that Mack weaves his magic in McLaren Vale, among other like-minded winemakers who are gradually bringing an edgier vibe to the shiraz-dominant region.

Mack has made the bold decision to no longer release new vintages of shiraz, preferring to build his brand around grenache as the lead player along with a sprinkling of lesser known varietals.

The last straight shiraz Mack released, The Aphelion Tendance Shiraz 2020, a beautifully perfumed, savoury-accented wine in a style reminiscent of France’s Rhone Valley, features in our mixed dozen. “I just wonder if shiraz will be less suited to the flatter, hotter parts of McLaren Vale in the years ahead,’’ he says. “In the northern end, in those slightly cooler, hillier parts, shiraz will probably still be good but varieties that thrive in hotter, drier conditions make sense to me.”

The Vale has been at the forefront of the recent reinterpretation and reappraisal of grenache through winemakers such as Mack and other equally devoted (dare we say obsessive!) vignerons at places such as Thistledown and Yangarra Estate.

More grenache was planted in McLaren Vale than any other variety over the past three years, and prices have grown steadily, but it still makes up only 1 per cent of the national crush.

Working gently with fruit from carefully selected McLaren sites, Mack’s formula is to pick grenache earlier than winemakers of past generations, enabling the grapes to retain acid and freshness and keep alcohol levels at about 13 per cent.

This contemporary style appeals to those preferring lighter, aromatic, fruit-driven styles. “I make these wines because I love to drink them; full of fresh fruit characters but with great complexity,” he says. “And in the vineyard, grenache suits our warm climate.”

He’s also looking 10-20 years down the road and creating something of value for his two children, Clairette, 8, and Monty, 5. “You never know, perhaps they will have an interest so you try to think ahead where you can,’’ Mack says.

He and wife Louise Rhodes Mack, his partner in Aphelion, also want to keep the business of a size that is easily managed. “Our first vintage was one tonne, three barrels, but we have built that up to 3500 to 4000 dozen over the years,” he says “That’s where we want to stay. Keeping it family-orientated, where we can do everything we need to do.”

Aphelion Affinity McLaren Vale Grenache Mourvedre 2024

A star blend in the Aphelion portfolio; this time 85 per cent grenache/15 per cent mourvedre. Leap-from-the-glass raspberry, strawberry and cherry aromas, mingling with a shake of pepper and spice. Palate is soft but full-flavoured, fresh and vibrant. Well-integrated tannins give enough structure to balance the intense fruit flavours. Beautiful winemaking. 93 points, Halliday Wine Companion. 14.2% alc; RRP $42.

SPECIALS $35.75 in Aphelion dozen.

Aphelion The Tendance McLaren Vale Shiraz 2020

A Rhone-style shiraz, showcasing lifted aromatics of violets, brambles, mulberries and spice. Rich black fruit on the palate is woven together with savoury notes of olive and cracked coffee, along with cinnamon spice, liquorice and salted chocolate. One to savour. 90 points, Halliday Wine Companion. 14.2% alc; RRP $38 a bottle.

SPECIALS $35.75 in Aphelion dozen.

Aphelion Emergent McLaren Vale Mourvedre 2021

Mourvedre (also known as mataro) has made its name as one of the trio of grapes in grenache/shiraz/mourvedre blends. Dark and spicy as a single player, offering lifted scents of black cherry, orange peel and almond, and hints of allspice, sage, rosemary and liquorice. Firm tannins; savoury finish. Pairs well with barbecued lamb. 93 points, Halliday Wine Companion. 14.4% alc; RRP $42.

SPECIALS $35.75 in Aphelion dozen.

Aphelion Ardent McLaren Vale Sagrantino 2019

A rarely seen variety in Australia that hails from Italy’s Umbria region. You’ll find aromas of tomato leaf, pan juices, liquorice and black coffee, along with dark cherry, hints of leather and dried fig. The palate flows from dark cherry to a range of savoury flavours. Best enjoyed slowly with rich, hearty Italian dishes. 93 points, Halliday Wine Companion. 14.4% alc; RRP $42.

SPECIALS $35.75 in Aphelion dozen.

APHELION DOZEN Three bottles of each wine above for $35.75 a bottle. SAVE $63.

Order online or phone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm AEST and quote ‘ACCJ’. Deals are available only while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine, LIQP770016550. Stockhead is partnering with The Australian Wine Club on this offer.